Start here: Refinancing
Refinancing only works when the maths beats the friction; we run the maths first.
Six stages on whether to switch lenders, what it really costs, and how to avoid the cashback traps. Plain numbers, no churn agenda.
6 stages~56 min total readUpdated 5 May 2026
You should be here if…
- You have an existing home loan and suspect you’re overpaying.
- You’ve been with your current lender 18+ months.
- You want a clear-eyed view, not a switching pitch.
6 stages
Refinancing
The 6 stages
Read in order, or jump to the bit you need.
01Should you refinance?The 25-bps rule, break-even maths, and the four situations where staying put is the right move.10 min02How to compare your current home loanHeadline rate, comparison rate, package effect, the three numbers your current lender hopes you don’t add up.9 min03Use your equity to drop LMI (and your LVR)A valuation that crosses 80% LVR removes LMI on your refinance. Strategy and timing matter.8 min04Cashback offers and the fine printA $4,000 cashback can be worth -$8,000 if you switch back inside the claw-back period. The four lines you check first.9 min05How the refinance process actually worksDischarge form, valuation, settlement, dual-loan period. Six weeks if you start clean, twelve if you don’t.11 min06Get matched with a refinance specialistOnce the maths checks out and you’ve picked a switch window, this is where you tap a specialist who runs your scenario across 40+ lenders in a day.9 min
Related deep-dive
Want the encyclopaedia, not the path? See the refinancing hub.
WARNING: This comparison rate is true only for the examples given and may not include all fees and charges. Different terms, fees or other loan amounts might result in a different comparison rate. Comparison rates are calculated on a secured loan of $150,000 over 25 years for home loans and a loan of $30,000 over 5 years for car and personal loans, unless the lender states another basis. Business loans and equipment finance for a business purpose have no mandatory comparison rate.